CVT Belt Replacement and Clutch Work
This tech article should guide you through most clutch work and belt replacement proceedures. Feel free to catch us on Facebook, Instagram, or E-mail with any questions!
- Remove both driver and passenger seats to allow access to the plastics underneath.
- Remove the air intake plastic located between the seat backs. This is done by removing the 4 push pin fasteners
- Remove the center plastic that goes around the emergency brake and under/behind the seats. This is done by removing a combination of pushpins and 10mm head bolts. For easiest removal pull up on the emergency brake handle when removing the plastic.
- On the CVT cover remove, all of the 8mm head bolts all of the way around the cover. Some will be accessed from the cabin space and some will be accessed from the left rear wheel opening. Take notice that 2 of the bolts are longer than the rest, those bolts go in the CVT cover where the locating pins are. The CVT cover comes out through the rear wheel opening.
- This would be a good time to inspect the small bearing in the CVT cover by sticking your finger in it and turning it and feeling if it is smooth to turn or not.
- Take off the nut on the rear most sheave to remove it (33mm socket). This is where your roller/slider weights are located. Remove the outer sheave assembly taking care to hold the cam plate to the sheave to keep the rollers/sliders from falling out.
- On the front sheave near the center nut there are 2 holes. One of these holes is threaded. Put one of the shorter 8mm head bolts from the CVT cover in that hole, run it down to open the sheave, and allow the belt to drop down for clearance.
- Remove the center nut on the front sheave (36mm socket). If this is the first time you have taken this nut off they can become seized and be VERY difficult to get off. A large impact or even a breaker bar with a cheater pipe on it is likely to be necessary. Put a small amount of grease on the shaft of the nut on the outside and inside to prevent this problem in the future. Some people have had to make sheave holders to keep it from turning while loosening the nut also.
- Once the nut is off you can remove the belt by sliding the sheave out slightly. For clutch clocking/tuning this sheave must be removed from the machine. It is a tight fit but it will come off the shaft and come out of the rear wheel opening. It may be necessary to put a ratchet strap on the engine and pull it towards the passenger side to allow more room to remove the front sheave. Remove the 8mm bolt from the front sheave before clutch clocking/tuning.
- To clock/tune the clutches you will need to have a bench vice and a clutch compression tool. The clutch compression tool can be made from a piece of all thread and nuts along with a few pieces of metal or can be bought here ( https://www.amazon.com/EPI-Clutch-Compression-Tool-CCT510/dp/B001AWLNY4 )
- Place the clutch compression tool in the vice and put the front sheave (sheave face down) on the threaded rod with the snap ring grip points easily accessible to you. Use the nut to compress the clutch slightly (1/16” or so). Use snap ring pliers to remove the snap ring from the retaining grove.
- Slowly loosen the clutch compression tool nut and the spring will expand. It may become jammed, if this happens leave the clutch compression tool about 1/8” from contacting the top of the sheave assembly and tap the top portion (helix hat) with a hammer gently and it will free up. You can then continue to release the nut until there is no longer spring tension and the helix had can be lifted off of the spring effortlessly.
- This is a good time to inspect the helix sliders that are screwed to the sheave. They should be smooth and rounded with no groves or notches. If you see excessive wear on them replace them. Also inspect the helix hat’s slider surfaces. They should be smooth with no noticeable stop marks from the helix sliders other than it being slightly smoother. There should be no shoulder or hump where the sliders stop. If there is then replace the helix hat.
- The stock sheave setting is B1. B2 is widely regarded as a better setting for stock machines with better acceleration and low end with no loss of high end. To change your settings on the sheave you will see letters next to a hole(A, B, C and D) and on the helix hat you will see numbers next to a hold (1, 2, 3 and 4). Place the spring locating pin into the appropriate letter hole you would like to set your sheave to. Now set your helix hat on the upper spring locating pin in the number hole that you would like to tune your sheave to (ex. B2, C4, D1 and so on) and place your snap ring on top of the helix hat as you will need to put it on in the next step.
- Tighten down the clutch compression tool making sure to align the key and keyway that is on the sheave and helix hat. Depending on your sheave setting you may need help turning the sheave to get the keyway to align. If you have to rotate the sheave to align the key and key way only rotate it so the spring tightens (not opens). Once the snap ring retaining grove is visible use the snap ring pliers to reinstall it in its grove.
- You can now remove the sheave from the clutch compression tool and reverse the assembly process to install the sheaves, belt, CVT cover, plastics and seats.